Method of sewing hat-leathers into hat-bodies.



GAMMONS, EXECUTORS- APPLICATION FILED MAY 3, I913. 1,139,620 Patented May 18, 1915.

THE NORRIS PETERS 60.. PHDTG-UTHQ. \VASH NSivN. u i.

WELCOME P. GAMMONS, 33.,

OF NEW YORK, N. Y.; CORDELIA F. GAMMONS AND WILLIAM W. GAIVIMONS, EXEGUTORS OF SAID WELCOME 1P. GAME/IONS, JR., Dill CEASED, ASSIGNORS TO W. P. GAMMONS, J'B., AND F. W. COLE, INQ, OF WILMING- TON, DELAWARE, A CORPORATION OF, DELAWARE.

METHOD OF SEWING HAT-LEATHERS INTO HAT-BODIES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 18, 1915.

Application filed. May 3, 1913. Serial No. 765,237.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that 1, WELCOME P. GAM- MONS, Jr., citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Sewing Hat-Leathers intoHat- Bodies; and 1 do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact descrip tion of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, and to figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention relates to an improved method for sewing hat leathers into hats by means of which the appearance of the hat is enhanced by reason of the hat leather showing no burs or light spots at the perforations where the stitching isdone, as the method causes the burs of the leather to project at the stitch openings on the side toward the hat body.

The improved method of sewing the hat provides an improved form of hat, the sewing operation consisting of two distinct steps, first puncturing. the leather when it is in position in the hat, the puncturing taking place toward the body, whereby a resistance, even if it is slightly yielding, is formed for the puncturing operation, the bur being formed on the hat leather toward the hat by reason of the puncturing tool entering the leather on the side farthest from the hat. Second, stitching first through the hat and then through the hat leather, the stitch through the hat leather going through the perforation previously made by the puncturing tool.

The method of carrying out the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which Figure 1 is a section showinga hat leather and enough of a hat body to illustrate the relation of the parts, this view showing the leather before it is punctured. Fig. 2 shows the parts in similar relation as in Fig. 1, but with the hat leather and part of the hat body punctured and the needle advanced to show the stitch. Fig. 8 is a similar view after the stitch is made, and Fig. 4 is the stitched hat removed from the sewing mechanism and in its normal position.

In this invention 1 have not illustrated nor will I describe the particular mechanism to bring about the operations incidental to the construction of the hat, and the method of sewing hat leather in the body, since different forms of apparatus and sewing machines can be used for this purpose, but'as types illustrating the general machine in use, I will refer to my Patent No. $99,024:, issued July 25,1911, and the structure illustrated in United States Letters Patent No. 1,063,253, issued June 3, 1913.

In carrying out my invention 1 provide a hat of the usual type, either a soft hat or a stifi hat, or the device is used as applied to a soft hat which is usually inverted when placed in the usual type of sewing machine for hats, and 1 illustrate the hat in its inverted position, illustrating part of the crown 10 and the brim 11, these being folded over on the edge of a suitable feeding wheel '12, the feeding wheel being used to advance the hat by a step-by-step movement to bring the successive portions of the hat in linewith the puncturing and stitching means. 1 hold, by a suitable mechanism, the hat leather 13 sothat it is in place in the hat body. I y

The first operation consists in puncturing the hat leather, for which purpose 1 use an awl 14;, or a similar tool which is advanced so as to enter the hat leather from the side opposite the hat body, whereby the hat body forms a somewhat resilient backing for the puncturing operation and also provides enough give to permit the burs 15, which are shown in Fig. 2, to be formed on the side toward the hat body, the puncturing operation entering, usually, a slight distance into the hat body as at 16 in Fig. 2. The hat leathers are usually made with a darkened surface due to the tanning process, and the finish of the leather, the inside of the leather being of a lighter color, and since the leather is thin, if the puncture is made by a sewing implement, as a needle, it pushes the material out away from the hat and it causes, as can be usually seen in the average type of new hat, a series of burs which are apparent to the touch when the finger is run also is evident to the eye,

; 17 being threaded as usual and adapted to 7 body and: the leather when the hat is'removed from the 7 machine and with the brim bedded in the hat body, leaving a smooth make a stitch by its'cocperationwith a suit able looper. The needle 1713 80: arranged that it enters the hatbody first, that is, it enters from the side opposite the hat leather and at a point in line with the perforation or recess 16 and in linewith theperfo'r'ation 18 that; is made in the hat leather by the aWl 1 4. The needle coming through theperfora tion has a clear passage and does not force the bur 15'outwa-rd, and the sewing operation does not disturb thisportion of the hat leather. WVhen the needleis withdrawn and I the stitch'ismade, it appears as in Fig. .3,

the stitch being illustrated at="19'and folding the end of the'h'atleatherfdo'wn'against the juncture of the brine and the body. as

at ZO-Y, p 7 in Fig.4 1'; illustrate ap'art of the hat assuming its normal 'po'sitionfor approximately ts normal position, ill'ustratlng the burs on the I hat Ileather somewhat 'emsurfaceonthe'inner'edge of-the hat leather.

"so apparent. i l Aft r the stitch is taken, a suitable feed- 7 i It will be understood in these drawings that some parts are ex ggerated", for instance, the thickness of the" thread and the size ofthe opening through-whichit comes in the hat leather, these being exaggerated" to more clear-1y define the inventio'n, but in practice the opening through, which the thread itself are not" thread comes and the ing'mechanism turns th feeding 'v'vheel 12 the distance of between one'stitcjh' the 7 next, and the operation" ofpuneturing' and sewing is repeated until thehat-leather has been secured for its entire length in the inby reason of the r side of the crown of the hat. The puncturing of the hat leather can not be done previous to the sewing, because'in feeding a hat in a hatlsewing machine,if the punctures in the hat leather were made previously, and even if the needle was started oh to penetrate each succeeding perforation when it began, it would not register with these equidistant perforations when the smaller radii ofithe hat were reached, that is, in the front and the rear of the hat theiradius is small, and besides,- there is a dip or drop to the hat brim which interferes with the feed and which would preven'tthe needle from stepping into its successive holes, and the result Y and product would not be acceptable.

Having thus described my invention, what 1 claims is r v p o 1.. The improved method of securing hat leathers into hat "bodies consisting in placing the leather'in the hat-with the edge of the" leather adjacent'to the junctureof the crown of the hat with its brim, subjecttheleather toward the hat, withdrawing the p then advancing the hat and leather for the length of a stitch The improved method of securing'hat leathers into hat bodies consisting in placlngthe leather, in thehat with the edge of the leather adjacent to the 'jun'cture'of the "crownof the 'hat'with its brim, foldingthe brim toward the hat, puncturing'the leather toward'thefoldof the hat and partially into the hat body, sewing through the hat-J body and then through the'perforation in the hatleather whentfhe punch is withdrawn, then advancing the-"hatand-leather for the lengthlof a and sewing operation described above 1 In testimony, thatI claim the, foregoing,

I have hereunto setiaay'hand this QQthday of April, 1913. r 1 r r v ing the-leather-toa puncture first through punch, sewing through the body and thenv through the puncture in the leather when the punch is Withdrawn,

andthen repeating the'puncture and sewing operation described.

withdrawingthe punch, then "stitch and then" repeating the puncturing I E r, GAMMON'S,JR-.

VVitnesses': y 7 ,VVMLHV, GAMFIELD, M. A. JOHNSON.

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